KIRTLAND AFB, N.M. -- Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas at 22,838 feet, presents a formidable challenge to climbers. Located in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes Mountain range in Argentina, it’s one of the famed Seven Summits – the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. For many climbers, including this writer, the allure of such peaks is powerful, despite the time, training, and expense required.
My high altitude climbing experience began in 2009 with a successful summit of Mount Kilimanjaro (19,341 feet) in Tanzania, Africa. That climb, while technically a straightforward “hike,” provided valuable insight into how my body would react to high altitude. The experience fueled my desire to tackle the highest mountain in North America, Denali in Alaska, which has been planned for May 2025. This past December, I also had the opportunity to attempt Aconcagua via the challenging Polish Glacier Direct Route. This climb afforded me the opportunity to flex my risk management skills and learn some valuable lessons.
This less-traveled route involves a technical climb up a glacier with fixed lines and slopes of 50-60 degrees, often requiring 10-12 hours to summit and another four to descend. The trek to Plaza Argentina base camp at 13,746 feet is a three-day, 25-mile hike through the Valle de las Vacas, an essential part of the acclimatization process. This mountain is also known for very high winds and snow.
Mountaineering carries inherent risks, influenced by factors like weather, altitude, experience, and decision-making. After several days of acclimatization hikes to higher camps, my climbing partner, Mike, our two guides, Fernando and Mariano, and I reached Camp 3 at 19,235 feet. Despite a restless night, I felt well-acclimatized thanks to staying hydrated and my training leading up to the climb, but one critical factor we cannot control is the weather. And it just so happened, weather had rolled in a few days prior which would make our climb even more challenging.
An early morning start revealed our worst fears: the fixed lines on the glacier were buried. Fixed lines act as a support and a guide for climbers going up and down particularly difficult sections. They make a climb significantly safer and reduce the possibility of mistakes, such as falling into a crevasse. Fernando began the arduous task of freeing them. The delay put us well behind schedule. Guides typically turn climbers back if they won't reach the summit with enough time for a safe descent. But since we still had a window of opportunity and our guides wanted to help us reach our goal, we persisted on this first ascent.
Unfortunately, at 21,161 feet, we encountered more buried ropes. After discussing the situation and weighing the risks, we made the difficult but necessary decision to turn back. The conditions, combined with our already-delayed schedule, made continuing unsafe. To summarize famed mountaineer Ed Viesturs, “the summit is optional; getting down is not.”
The descent was treacherous due to the icy conditions. Back at high camp, we reflected on the experience. While disappointed, I realized the value of the lessons learned. The mountain ultimately dictates the outcome, as it does every time I attempt a summit.
My biggest regret? Not voicing my concerns earlier about the buried ropes and suggesting an attempt on the normal route, given the favorable weather window. Mike and I, both experienced mountaineers, felt we should have and could have spoken up. While our guides were excellent, conditions can change unexpectedly.
Whether you’re doing a short climb or climbing Everest, no mountain should be taken lightly. Any mountain can kill you if you’re not prepared or going above your skill level. Good risk management starts in your preparation, but it continues with every choice you make along the way. Prepare by having the proper clothing, food, water, a plan, turnaround time, escape plan, battery pack, satellite communication device, etc. If conditions change, use risk management to weigh your options. Bottom line: safety and smart choices help guarantee that you can come back and try again.
My experience at Anconcagua reinforced the importance of safety, risk management, and smart decision-making. All choices have consequences whether good or bad; there is always a result. I will be more assertive in future climbs to ensure my voice is heard. Every mountain expedition is a unique journey, and I cherish each one. I look forward to returning to Aconcagua with friends for another attempt. Never take life for granted and live each day like there is no tomorrow. You won’t regret it.
Col. Shannon “MOP” Phares is an Aerospace Physiologist and the Human Performance division chief at the Air Force Safety Center. The Human Performance division focuses on the human contribution to safety and mishaps. Their team includes specialists in aerospace physiology, epidemiology, medicine, aviation and human performance psychology, as well as safety, aviation and maintenance experts to develop and implement proactive safety tools for mishap prevention.